Saturday, November 9, 2013

Coyhaique (The Marble Caves)

The next adventure was the marble caves close to Coyhaique, Chile. About a four hour drive from the city are the marble caves. The drive itself is amazing with white snow capped peaks surrounded by lush forests and lakes. The long drive is mostly on a gravel road that a lot of people drive too quickly on and consequently there are a lot of "accidents". We all know that there are no accidents...most things can be prevented. But I digress.

On to another thing I don't like...the way they treat the caves. This is a national treasure which needs to be protected, but the tours just go into the caves with these long boats bumping the walls and the ends knocking off bits and pieces here and there. The people go and break off pieces of the marble for their homes or souvenirs. It's not right at all and it's a tragedy. However...

The marble caves are a fascinating bit of geology created over thousands of years by a glacier first and then carved by the wind and slow waves of Lake General Carrera through time. This has left small openings that can be entered with a boat to show visitors the splendour of the caves. The lake water is such a deep sapphire blue, that when the sun hits the lake and reflects onto the grey marble, a symphony of colour appears on the rocks. It's truly one of the most amazing shows I've see nature put on. Enough of this rambling...time for pictures!


Part of the paved road

Amazing views the whole way

so much blue...skies...water...amazing

Boat entering a cave

Inside looking out

Outside looking in

Another group to the port side


The water is still shaping the caves

Cool reflections




More reflections

rays of the sun










Saturday, November 2, 2013

Torres del Paine National Park

One of the experiences I was looking forward to was Torres del Paine National Park. It is a mountain range separate from the Andes that is surrounded by lakes. I first thought I'd do the four day hike around the mountains, but as all my gear got stolen, I couldn't....yeah right! Who am I kidding? I'm not really going to do a four day hike! That's just madness.

The park is really beautiful, and I arranged to go with a tour because buses are infrequent and don't go throughout the park. You could tell this tour guide didn't love the park like my previous glacier guide. Even though the passion wasn't there, it didn't take away from this beautiful place. We drove past rivers and lakes and mountains and water so blue it looked like it was photoshopped. We were supposed to do a hike down a canyon to a waterfall but the park rangers closed the trail due to winds at 130km/h!

We settled for a short walk to see Glacier Grey. It was still exciting.

I hope to return one day and camp out and do some trekking. But it wasn't in the cards for me this time. I think one thing to remember about travelling is that you can't do everything, nor should you. There should always be something to draw you back to a place. If for nothing else, to experience something new.

Foreground: Lake Sarmiento, Background: Torres and Cuerno del Paine

Lake Sarmiento

Lake Pehoe with Torres del Paine

Lake Grey with gale force winds

Iceberg ahead!!

Glacier Grey on a grey day

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Chile

It's been a while since I've done a country overview. Chile is the land of pisco, beaches and half of Patagonia.


The cities I plan to visit while I'm here are:

  • Puerto Natales (gateway to Torres del Paine National Park)
  • Coyhaique (the city closest to the marble caves)
  • Santiago (capital of Chile)
  • Vina del Mar & Valparaiso (beach towns famous for street art and surfing)
  • La Serena (two observatories and trillions of stars)
  • Easter Island (home of the Maoi)


Wednesday, October 30, 2013

El Calafate

This place seems like a dream. Turquoise blue waters with mountains set behind it. A group of flamingos standing there and my hostel looking out over all of it. This is a special place where people are super friendly and really laid back. This is also the current residence of the Perito Moreno Glacier. I took a tour to go check out this beast of ice and snow and it did not disappoint.

I went with a tour, which is unusual for me, but I'm glad I did because the guide loved what she was doing. She visited Calafate 10 years ago from northern Argentina and never left. I can understand the magnetism this place possesses. She took us on a long forgotten hiking path that to the lake across from the glacier. It was amazing. Just us and the group on this abandoned trail. It's like we had the glacier to ourselves.

We then got to the proper visitors center and area where they have pathways and balconies running everywhere. They span the length of the glacier and you can get various view of the ice. But it's not the view that's the most stunning part. It's hearing the sound of the glacier cracking and breaking in the hot sun and watching chunks falling off and making huge splashes and sounds as they land in the icy waters below. The ice is so blue. It's not like the ice we're used to. It's because it is such compacted snow that it absorbs every colour on the spectrum except blue.

After the viewing balconies, there was a boat that got within 200m of the glacier. It is so massive! At least 50m tall. Just puts everything into perspective looking at a massive sheet of ice and snow that has been around for a few millennia and will likely be around a lot longer.

It was a great visit to an amazing place. This trip has rocked my world.

Taking the long way to the glacier

View from our nature hike on the forgotten trail

Perito Moreno Glacier

Sea, Sky, Ice, Earth

Panoramic from the boat

Lifting glaciers is hard work!



Friday, October 25, 2013

Puerto Madryn

Wildlife galore! This is the place to be for all sorts of marine animals. Penguins, elephant seals, sea lions and whales. I flew because the bus ride is 17-20 hours and I'm done with that nonsense. The flight was two hours, that gives you an idea of the distance to cover, 700km.

Arriving in Puerto Madryn is like arriving in another world. The land is so flat and dry. There is only bushes and scrub as vegetation. There are no buses, the town is geared to tourism. Everything is expensive, but that's how it goes sometimes. The first day, I walked out and turned left to the Atlantic ocean and saw two whales sticking their head up and down out of the water! It was amazing. I stood and watched them for half an hour.

I ended up taking one tour and joining a couple of girls who had rented a car. We drove for 2 hours to Punta Tombo, the "famous" penguin colony of Patagonia. There are thousands of penguins here. And they aren't afraid of humans. We are supposed to stay 2 meters away from them and stay on the paths. But of course, no one does that!
P-p-p-p-p-p Pingu! Pingu!

We had a fight...
After the penguins, we were hungry and ended up going to the small town of Gaiman, only 5000 people live there. A lot of them of Welsh descent and that's why there are so many English tea houses. Who would've thought that after a day of waddling around with penguins, I'd end up having a full English tea service! The pastries were really good.
I like cake! Yummy Yummy Yummy!

That small blue speck close to the horizon is a whale...I swear!
Before heading back to the hostel, we went to a beach that is famous for seeing whales. And we saw them smacking their tails against the water. One even did a full breach of the water and came down with a huge splash! They are enormous and tranquil and fun-loving at the same time.

The second day in P. Madryn was for the elephant seals. A 4x4 picked us up from the hostel with two other people from France and our guide. That was it. After an hour and a half drive, we were there, Punta Ninfas! And the beach was ours. No one else goes here, because they prefer going to the more popular Peninsula Valdes where there is a greater variety of wildlife...but you can't get anywhere as close. Elephant seals are interesting creatures. The mothers raise the young only for 20-25 days, and then they are on their own. They have to live on their own and learn what they need to by themselves. The alpha males have a harem of varying sizes and there are peripheral males who try to sneak in and mate with the females when the alpha is sleeping or not paying attention! Pretty sure that's a crime in the human world.

Start of the Elephant Seal Adventure
Our guide helping the French ladies climb down
Halway down
Ahhh, that's why they call them elephant seals...
6 metres long!
What up seal?
Baby seal
Sea lion!!!
The long walk back
So tiring laying on the beach all day!
Last look
We descended down a 40m tall sandstone cliff to the rocky beach where there were loads and loads of elephant seals. We were really lucky and even saw a sea lion and his wife as well. We were so close, we could literally reach out and touch them. But we didn't bother the animals. This is an unprotected area and soon enough the Argentines will start charging for this too. But for now, it was just us and the seals. Amazing.

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Iguazu Falls

Imagine Niagara Falls, now multiply it by 10 and plop it into the middle of the jungle. Even with your imagination's creative vision, Iguazu Falls would be much more than that.

It is absolutely incredible to be standing at the mouth of the falls and hearing the water rushing past, feeling the mist on your face, watching the swifts dart in and out of the water. On the day I was there, it was also raining a little bit. I had goosebumps all over. It was intense to be on the edge of something to massive and powerful. The picture will never do it justice. The videos will give a slight sense of how impressive it was. But this really is a must-see destination. It's one of the seven natural wonders of the world.

They have three or four trails cutting through the jungle that lead you to the upper portion of the falls, the lower portion of the falls and straight into the Devil's Throat (that's the name of the main falls). There's also another trail that leads through the forest to an amazing panoramic view of the jungle from on top of another waterfall.

There were butterflies everywhere! They landed on my shoulders, on my hat, on my shoes, on my ankles, even on my face! They weren't landing on anyone else. I feel special.

They have a boat that goes right into the heart of the falls. But this isn't your regular maid of the mist tugboat. It's a heavy duty craft with heavy duty motors to power into the middle of the raging falls and back out again. Definitely would be banned in Canada. This would be a top 5 highlight of my trip so far!


Boat to the falls
View from the boat before we went in

Devil's Throat


Devil's Throat

Devil's Throat



First Waterfall I saw

Mist everywhere!

Simply amazing!